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How to upgrade a Bambu Lab P1P to a P1S, step by step with no steps skipped
Short answer: you can turn a Bambu Lab P1P into an enclosed P1S with the upgrade kit, but plan on 1 to 2 hours, some guessing about which screws go where, and one part you have to 3D print yourself. In the video I show every step I took: removing the old parts, installing the side panels, rear fan, heat sink, front cover, door and glass, and rerouting the filament tube through the new link chain.
I made this video because the information out there is incomplete. The official videos on this topic are hard to find, the wiki has missing information, and many other tutorials skip steps. So here is my full experience, start to finish.
Why I upgraded my P1P
The main reason was ABS. I was told that if heat escapes from an open printer, ABS will not print properly, so I decided to give the enclosure a try. It also looks nicer with the panels and glass, and the printer is less noisy once everything is closed.
Taking the printer apart
Start by pushing the top part in the direction shown until it snaps off and you see the clips, then unplug it. Next, remove the screw that holds the next piece; with the right tool it comes out easily and you can pull the part out. Some pieces are glued: slide a knife behind them and push to unglue them.
With an Allen key, remove the screws holding the spool holder and the other parts so everything can come out. An electric screwdriver helps a lot here because there are many screws.
Hinges and side panels
The front hinge sits on two small metal pins. Put the hinge in place, add one small screw, open it and add the second screw. The box has no tags telling you which screw goes where, so you have to guess. In my case the bigger screws with the thicker thread worked; several of the other screws in the kit did not.
The left panel is marked L. Route the fan cable as marked on the panel, then fit the panel. I had to remove the screws along one column of the frame so the panel could close all the way; otherwise those screws get in the way. Repeat the same process for the right panel. Where the hinge side was loose and the original screw holes did not line up, I found other spots to put screws until it was firm.
Rear fan and the heat sink
The kit includes double-sided tape for the rear fan, but on my printer there were two nuts and the kit came with two long screws, so I screwed it on instead. That also makes maintenance easier later than pulling off tape.
The heat sink was the part I liked least. On my printer it runs vertically, not horizontally like in the reference video, and the small fan does not say which way it blows. I ended up gluing it onto an existing heat sink and bracket. Glue tends to come loose over time, and small fans fail or get noisy, so I would prefer a bigger heat sink and an access panel. My advice: install this fan first, before the other panels, because fitting it afterwards is a real struggle, and you need a small tool for the two screws.
Front cover, door, glass and tube chain
Fit the front cover so it lines up with the SD card reader, glue the small antenna back in place, and plug everything back as it was. The door gets a rubber gasket and screws; the kit also has a magnet that holds it in place. Plug the new cable into a free connector (on my unit, the one on the left) and close the cover.
One purple piece is not included in the kit, so I printed it myself. For the glass, add the rubber gasket so it does not get damaged; honestly, I think it closes better without the extra rubber trim. For the filament path, the new link chain clicks together like a chain, the tube goes inside it, and a clip holds the new tube. I cut the rubber seal in half instead of taking everything apart (six screws hold that plastic) and ran one single piece of tubing to the spool, because two pieces did not work well.
Was it worth it?
It works, it looks nice and it is quieter, but the door does not close perfectly because of a small plastic piece, some parts do not fit right, and support was not much help: Bambu customer service is email only and did not know much about the kit. The box parts have QR codes you scan with a smartphone for images, which is a problem if you do not have one. If I had to do it again, I would leave the P1P as it is and buy a printer that already has the panels.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the P1P to P1S upgrade take?
In my experience it can easily take 1 to 2 hours, working little by little.
Does the upgrade kit include every part?
Not in my case. One piece was missing and I had to 3D print it myself, and the box does not label which screws go where.
Why enclose a P1P?
I did it mainly to print ABS, since heat escaping from an open printer can cause problems. It also looks nicer and is less noisy.
Would you recommend the upgrade?
It works, but because it took so long and not every piece fits perfectly, I would rather buy a printer that already comes with the panels.